Wednesday, August 24, 2016

TEST: Hand Carved Beauty and Elegance

When it comes to design, pieces with simplicity of décor can be compelling. They can offer a subtle anchor around which other pieces can be balanced.

As wonderful as subtle pieces can be, sometimes a room calls for something less… understated. In these cases, elegantly, delicately carved pieces just might fit the bill. With delicately carved pieces you can almost imagine the artisan pouring his heart into carving the flowers, tassels or shells. When we see the piece decades or centuries after it was created we can’t help but be amazed by the patience it no doubt took to turn a piece of wood into a work of art… even if it’s in the form of a clock, chest or some other functional piece.

And so it is that we focus on three distinctly different hand carved chests. The first is an exquisite 18th century Italian four drawer commode. This piece is a delight for the mind. Each drawer is outlined by a series of volute carvings while the drawers are flanked by figures on each side that seem poised to leap from the piece. On the bottom level are two terms - term means character on a gaine while gaine is typically the part of a sculpture representing the bottom of a body upon which a bust may be set. Above each Term sits a nude figure, one standing and the other seemingly in mid stride of a run. Finally, above the nudes stand two more characters, a male and female dressed in 18th century attire.

Along the bottom is a carved ribbon. The drawer knobs are rounded flowers and the piece sits on two carved paws. This commode, while quite detailed, is simple in appearance and may have been have been made for a member of the merchant class. It is, in a word, captivating, as almost each tap of the carpenter’s chisel can be imagined as he toiled to build something that we could enjoy centuries later.




(A term on a gaine from the gardens of Versailles)







This second piece is anything but simple. It is elegance defined: A French 18th century serpentine walnut Louis XV style richly decorated four-drawer chest with scrolled feet and scalloped skirt. Its lines are smooth, if not straight, and it has a Rocaille theme with shells and acanthus leaves carved into its drawers. The front corners feature a carved mesh pattern with shells at the bottom and leaves at the top. And finally, this piece is accented by wonderful brass handles formed of leaves. From afar the piece is so well crafted that it looks like it might have been machine cut because it seems so symmetrical, but a upon closer inspection it can be seen that each shell, each leaf, each volute has its own unique shape and lines and shadows.






The third of our chests is an 18th century Swedish period Baroque cabinet with low relief carvings of natural elements, and raised panels. This stunning piece features a mosaic of richly carved elements from tassels to fruits to leaves to flowers. The top and the bottom each feature 3 lions while each door, panel and drawer is outlined with a black repeating ridge pattern that unifies the piece into a wonder to behold. Made from oak and ebonized wood, this piece is a monument to classical carpentry as its majesty draws the attention in any room.











These three pieces, each with their different styles, share the distinction of being anything but subtle. Each is a vibrant execution of beauty that seems to have been carved as a labor of love. Such care very much stands the test of time and we are lucky enough to be able to enjoy it today.

Sunday, July 17, 2016

Morocco: Beauty Beyond Bogart and Bergman...

“Play it again Sam…”, “Kiss me as if it were the last time” “Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine…” Three of the most memorable lines from one of the greatest movies of all time: Casablanca. The movie itself is nothing short of spectacular and most of it plays out in Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco. The only problem however, is that the movie wasn’t based on the city at all and was actually filmed 6,000 miles away in Hollywood. Tourists seeking the Casablanca of Bogart and Bergman have been sorely disappointed for decades… but that doesn’t mean that Morocco is not a spectacular beauty well worth visiting, because it is. Although most people think of Casablanca when they think of Morocco, in reality Morocco beyond the country’s largest city is enchanting and sometimes breathtaking.

Hugh and Angie have just returned from three weeks in Morocco and have once again found it to be extraordinary. Arriving in Marrakesh from Amsterdam, they made their way to a Riad, which is a house or building within a (usually) nondescript walled compound. This wall typically provided families with privacy and protection from the sometimes harsh Moroccan winds. These compounds typically have a fountain or some sort of water feature as well as a garden or small grove of citrus trees. This one had all that and a white cat too!

One of the first places they visited was the Jemaa el-Fnaa, the open market (souq) in the city’s old Medina quarter. There you can find everything from Berber storytellers to snake charmers to booths for Henna tattoos. This souq is also famous for old jewelry made by nomads and a wide variety of unique weavings.

Next it was over to another of Marrakesh‘s jewels, the spectacular Majorelle Garden, a 12 acre botanical garden that was owned by Yves Saint-Laurent and where his ashes were scattered after his death in 2008.

They found much to do and see beyond Marrakesh too. They visited Fes, a city in the north central part of the country famous for its museums and exquisite wood carving. Fes was actually the capital city until it was replaced by Marrakesh 600 years ago. (Marrakesh in turn was supplanted by the current capital, Rabat, in 1912.) Fes’s most famous feature is the Medina of Fes, the city’s ancient quarter. Although no longer the capital city, Fes and the Medina remain the cultural center of the country.

Another wonder of Morocco is Volubilis, home of ruins of ancient Berber and Roman cities situated between Fes and Rabat. Although looted in the 18th century, much of the treasure remains and important pieces of the town are now accessible after being excavated by the French in the late 19th century. Among the town’s most compelling attractions: myriad mosaics and… stork nests! UNESCO deems Volubilis: “An exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire”. Well worth visiting!

Volubilis is located about 20 miles from the city of Meknes, another erstwhile capital city. (For a short period during the reign of the Sultan Moulay Ismail at the turn of the 17th century. The walled city boasts impressive Spanish / Moorish roots that seamlessly blend the European and Islamic architecture.

Next it was on to the beach! Essaouira is a city on Morocco’s Atlantic coast that has been inhabited for over 5,000 years. The city has been a great draw for centuries because its bay is protected by the island of Mogador, making its harbor particularly attractive, which in turn turned the city into a dynamic trading hub between Europe and North Africa. The Jewish quarter of the city contains many old synagogues as Jews settled in the city and facilitated trade with Europe.

Finally it was on to one of the most unexpected jewels in Morocco, Ifrane. Located 5,400 ft. above sea level in the Atlas Mountains, modern Ifrane was established by the French in 1928. It is a resort skiing town – in the winter – and a refuge from the heat in the summer. Planned according to the “garden city” models that were in vogue in the twenties and thirties, the city has many tree lined streets, chalet style houses and many gardens.

And of course there are the souvenirs... Hugh and Angie brought back a plethora of jewelry from a variety of places around the country.  Some old, some new and all interesting.  We will be adding to our website over the next month.  Jewelry will even have it's own section!

So the next time you curl up on your couch and watch Casablanca, go ahead and dream about visiting Morocco, just don’t expect to see the black and white images on your screen. Be prepared to be dazzled by the bright colors, ancient ruins and a country full of breathtaking views.



Majorelle Garden in Marrakesh, a 12 acre botanical garden owned by the late Yves Saint-Laurent 


Tajines, earthenware pots which dishes are cooked in and served on


This is a dish that is often cooked in a Tajine, pasta with goat, vegetables and dates


Morocco's open air markets feature a wide variety of spices from across the Africa and Asia


Interior garden of hotel in Fes


Hotel that has been turned into a museum in Fes


Blue Gate into the Medina of Fes - a UNESCO World Heritage site


Another gate into the Medina





Morocco is known for its beautiful tile work


Above are some of the brilliant colors used in tile making and below is a tile being decorated





Morocco is known for its abundant dates


A delicately laced balcony


An Amariya, a traditional wedding chair for the bride and groom and carried by 4 strong men.





This is one of the last leather dyeing facilities that remains in Marrakesh


Volubilis, the ancient Roman city located about an hour west of Fes


Storks are common in Morocco, even taking up residence in Volubilis


Volubilis is famous for its many well preserved Roman mosaics


City gate in Meknes


Beautiful interior of a mosque


Mosque pictured from the door as entering was prohibited





Dromedary camels (the one hump kind) are common in Morocco


If you've ever heard the term "Goats in Trees" or seen the movie... it really happens.  They are searching for fruits in a Argan tree


This path is laid down at the bottom of a canyon carved out of the Morocco desert.  


Entrance to the studio where desert scenes from many Hollywood movies have been shot, including a little movie called Gladiator.  


The view from above Agadir, an Atlantic coast city about 125 miles south of Marrakesh 


A fort in Essaouira, a town about 40 miles north of Agadir


A sea of blue fishing boats tied up in Essaouira 


Interior shot of a riad in Essaouira - riad is a house or garden with an interior garden or courtyard


The Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakesh


The resort town of Ifrane, with it's alpine climate in the Atlas mountains.
(Photograph: Trevor Hampel of Trevor's Travels)


A wall featuring a wide variety of local jewelry in Marrekesh