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Sunday, July 17, 2016

Morocco: Beauty Beyond Bogart and Bergman...

“Play it again Sam…”, “Kiss me as if it were the last time” “Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine…” Three of the most memorable lines from one of the greatest movies of all time: Casablanca. The movie itself is nothing short of spectacular and most of it plays out in Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco. The only problem however, is that the movie wasn’t based on the city at all and was actually filmed 6,000 miles away in Hollywood. Tourists seeking the Casablanca of Bogart and Bergman have been sorely disappointed for decades… but that doesn’t mean that Morocco is not a spectacular beauty well worth visiting, because it is. Although most people think of Casablanca when they think of Morocco, in reality Morocco beyond the country’s largest city is enchanting and sometimes breathtaking.

Hugh and Angie have just returned from three weeks in Morocco and have once again found it to be extraordinary. Arriving in Marrakesh from Amsterdam, they made their way to a Riad, which is a house or building within a (usually) nondescript walled compound. This wall typically provided families with privacy and protection from the sometimes harsh Moroccan winds. These compounds typically have a fountain or some sort of water feature as well as a garden or small grove of citrus trees. This one had all that and a white cat too!

One of the first places they visited was the Jemaa el-Fnaa, the open market (souq) in the city’s old Medina quarter. There you can find everything from Berber storytellers to snake charmers to booths for Henna tattoos. This souq is also famous for old jewelry made by nomads and a wide variety of unique weavings.

Next it was over to another of Marrakesh‘s jewels, the spectacular Majorelle Garden, a 12 acre botanical garden that was owned by Yves Saint-Laurent and where his ashes were scattered after his death in 2008.

They found much to do and see beyond Marrakesh too. They visited Fes, a city in the north central part of the country famous for its museums and exquisite wood carving. Fes was actually the capital city until it was replaced by Marrakesh 600 years ago. (Marrakesh in turn was supplanted by the current capital, Rabat, in 1912.) Fes’s most famous feature is the Medina of Fes, the city’s ancient quarter. Although no longer the capital city, Fes and the Medina remain the cultural center of the country.

Another wonder of Morocco is Volubilis, home of ruins of ancient Berber and Roman cities situated between Fes and Rabat. Although looted in the 18th century, much of the treasure remains and important pieces of the town are now accessible after being excavated by the French in the late 19th century. Among the town’s most compelling attractions: myriad mosaics and… stork nests! UNESCO deems Volubilis: “An exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire”. Well worth visiting!

Volubilis is located about 20 miles from the city of Meknes, another erstwhile capital city. (For a short period during the reign of the Sultan Moulay Ismail at the turn of the 17th century. The walled city boasts impressive Spanish / Moorish roots that seamlessly blend the European and Islamic architecture.

Next it was on to the beach! Essaouira is a city on Morocco’s Atlantic coast that has been inhabited for over 5,000 years. The city has been a great draw for centuries because its bay is protected by the island of Mogador, making its harbor particularly attractive, which in turn turned the city into a dynamic trading hub between Europe and North Africa. The Jewish quarter of the city contains many old synagogues as Jews settled in the city and facilitated trade with Europe.

Finally it was on to one of the most unexpected jewels in Morocco, Ifrane. Located 5,400 ft. above sea level in the Atlas Mountains, modern Ifrane was established by the French in 1928. It is a resort skiing town – in the winter – and a refuge from the heat in the summer. Planned according to the “garden city” models that were in vogue in the twenties and thirties, the city has many tree lined streets, chalet style houses and many gardens.

And of course there are the souvenirs... Hugh and Angie brought back a plethora of jewelry from a variety of places around the country. Some old, some new and all interesting. We will be adding to our website over the next month. Jewelry will even have it's own section!

So the next time you curl up on your couch and watch Casablanca, go ahead and dream about visiting Morocco, just don’t expect to see the black and white images on your screen. Be prepared to be dazzled by the bright colors, ancient ruins and a country full of breathtaking views.

Majorelle Garden in Marrakesh, a 12 acre botanical garden owned by the late Yves Saint-Laurent

Tajines, earthenware pots which dishes are cooked in and served on

This is a dish that is often cooked in a Tajine, pasta with goat, vegetables and dates

Morocco's open air markets feature a wide variety of spices from across the Africa and Asia

Interior garden of hotel in Fes

Hotel that has been turned into a museum in Fes

Blue Gate into the Medina of Fes - a UNESCO World Heritage site

Another gate into the Medina

Morocco is known for its beautiful tile work

Above are some of the brilliant colors used in tile making and below is a tile being decorated

Morocco is known for its abundant dates

A delicately laced balcony

An Amariya, a traditional wedding chair for the bride and groom and carried by 4 strong men.

This is one of the last leather dyeing facilities that remains in Marrakesh

Volubilis, the ancient Roman city located about an hour west of Fes

Storks are common in Morocco, even taking up residence in Volubilis

Volubilis is famous for its many well preserved Roman mosaics

City gate in Meknes

Beautiful interior of a mosque

Mosque pictured from the door as entering was prohibited

Dromedary camels (the one hump kind) are common in Morocco

If you've ever heard the term "Goats in Trees" or seen the movie... it really happens. They are searching for fruits in a Argan tree

This path is laid down at the bottom of a canyon carved out of the Morocco desert.

Entrance to the studio where desert scenes from many Hollywood movies have been shot, including a little movie called Gladiator.

The view from above Agadir, an Atlantic coast city about 125 miles south of Marrakesh

A fort in Essaouira, a town about 40 miles north of Agadir

A sea of blue fishing boats tied up in Essaouira

Interior shot of a riad in Essaouira - riad is a house or garden with an interior garden or courtyard

The Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakesh

The resort town of Ifrane, with it's alpine climate in the Atlas mountains.
(Photograph: Trevor Hampel of Trevor's Travels)

A wall featuring a wide variety of local jewelry in Marrekesh

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Articles of Design... TEST BLOG

Even in the digital age there are still thousands of actual, tangible magazines printed every month. Most of them will find their way back to the recycling plant having never even been opened. Some however, are worth their weight in gold for the beauty they capture, the ideas they generate, and the dreams they inspire. Veranda is one of those... and below are some great pieces from the March - April 2016 issue.

Peaceful Kingdom
Interior Design by Ann Holden & Photography by Max Kim-Bee

High Impact
Interior Design Nick Olsen & Photography by Joshua McHugh

Personal Best - Including cover

Interior Design by Jane Hawkins Hoke & Photography by Annie Schlechter

Return Engagement
Interior Design and Photography by Vicente Wolf

Monday, June 13, 2016

Chairs 2 Preview

After the fall of the Roman Empire chairs became almost nonexistent from the everyday lives of most westerners… but they were not quite extinct however as chairs never disappeared from the church. While parishioners were relegated to pews or benches, priests and bishops typically had chairs on the altar. As the church grew richer, the ornateness of those “chairs” increased and by the middle of the 2nd millennia they could have easily been confused with thrones. But of course thrones need kings or queens or the close proximity thereof…

The 15th century brought about a settling of Europe into population centers and kingdoms and a rise of nobility. The simultaneous rise of wealth helped bring about a revival of home furnishings in general and chairs in particular. Chairs made a strong comeback as increasingly larger homes required more chairs with distinct functions. Ornamentation, sophistication, and quality of construction also increased.

As the kings and queens of Europe enjoyed increasing wealth, they began to look longingly upon the beauty of the altar chairs the church had maintained and began to demand increasingly ornate thrones. Indeed, thrones, as so much with royalty, were intended to communicate about the king or queen’s proximity to God and their relation to the people. As such, over time the thrones in capitals across Europe became increasingly magnificent and majestic. These could be ornate as is this Venetian throne on the left or as intimidating as the throne on the right made for Napoleon.

As the royal thrones inspired the rest of the nobility to seek chairs of own, they in turn inspired others and over time chairs became increasingly common at all levels of society. This diffusion of the culture of chairs was greatly aided by an increase in manufacturing capacity and affordability. As a result chairs not only became more common, they took on distinct looks and functions such dining chairs vs. accent chairs vs. Bèrgère chairs.

Possibly the single most important and dynamic period of European furniture design took place under the reigns of three French kings of the 17th and 18th centuries. The first was Louis XIV, who took the throne in 1660. He believed that furnishings and décor should be a tool to showcase the majesty and grace of the monarchy. As a result, furniture from this period (~1660 – 1720) is among the most elegant and ornate in history. The chair’s lines are typically straight, the backs upright and the shape rectangular. The chairs were usually richly upholstered and the woods were often gilded.

Soon after the turn of the century Louis XV ascended the throne and furniture styles changed rather dramatically. This period (~1700 – 1750) showcased a less rigid style, with curved and angled arms and legs along with rounded seats and backs. Under Louis XV furniture began to adapt to the needs and comfort of users, particularly women, whose wide dresses could make sitting very difficult on the rigid chairs of Louis XIV.

Finally we have the period inspired by Louis XVI (~1750-1800) which would push back against some of the changes that evolved under his predecessor. Gone were the Baroque flourishes that had become common as a more restrained style came to the fore. Straight lines were back, and while curves were not abandoned entirely, a more subtle, slightly neoclassical rigidity appeared as legs would often be carved in the style of ancient columns and embellishments were slightly subdued.

The stunning evolution of chairs that would occur under the three successive French kings would result in a European style and grace that would last through much of the 19th century. This apex of design included everything from the sumptuous mid 18th century English Rococo style of Robert Adam and Thomas Chippendale to ornately decorated exquisite workmanship of 19th century France’s Napoleon III style with a cornucopia of elegance in between. Chairs were no longer just functional; they became works of art unto themselves. Today we look at the narrow straight lines of the English Neoclassical style and see elegance. We look at the more curved and inviting lines of the French Neoclassical style and see grace. Later we see the broad, expansive Louis-Philippe style chairs and we see warmth and comfort, followed by the majesty inherent in the intricacy of the Napoleon III style.

The 20th century brought a continuing evolution of chairs, from component and assembly line manufacturing to art deco styling to the ergonomic functionality. Today chairs are as a common part of our lives as is fresh water or canned food, but it’s interesting to remember that for most of human history chairs simply didn’t exist for the average person… although you have to wonder if King Tut would have exchanged his stern formal throne for a recliner or Herman Miller office chair.

Thursday, May 26, 2016

From the Dawn of Man to the Roman Empire... the History of Chairs: Part I

Sometimes there are things that we take for granted because they seem so obvious and straight forward that we can’t imagine a time when they didn’t exist. One example… space. Not the kind of space with the stars and planets, but rather, the empty space between words. Believe it or not, that little thing has only been around since the 8th century when some monks decided that readingasentencewithoutspaceswastoohard… Can you imagine trying to get through War & Peace without spaces? Even Harry Potter wouldn’t have been much fun.

Another example is the wheel. The west has had wheels for thousands of years going back far beyond Egyptian and Roman chariots. In the Americas however, the wheel didn’t really exist until the Europeans brought it with them. Which probably explains why there’s no equivalent to “All roads lead to Rome” here…

Then of course there are chairs… The basic concept of a chair as we know it today was largely foreign to most people until the middle ages. It’s not quite that chairs didn’t exist, they did, but the idea of a chair you can pull up to the dinner table or that you can crowd around a games table to play cards didn’t really exist for most people until after the Dark Ages.

Before that the notion of sitting did exist of course, but chairs weren’t really part of the equation. Archeological digs suggest that seats existed in China as far back as 10,000 BC. But they were far from chairs however, probably just blocks of stone for one or more person to sit on. Indeed, although seating elements existed, most Chinese did not use them, preferring instead to kneel on pillows or mats on the ground. Today this culture has been abandoned in much of the Far East, but it remains in some places, most notably in Japan where cushions and low tables are widespread.

Throne discovered in the tomb of King Tut

The Egyptians used seating as well, and did indeed actually have chairs. Early indications are that chairs evolved from simple backless stools to sophisticated chairs with backs over 5,000 years ago. By the time of King Tut in fact, chairs were nothing less than works of art unto themselves. His tomb included a number of dazzling gold plated benches and chairs.

Hieroglyphic evidence from ancient Egypt suggests that chair usage, while not nearly as pervasive as in modern times, was found at all levels of society. This did not mean however that chair usage was common. In fact, chairs were often ceremonial pieces and were frequently reserved for the head of the house or the family. For the lower strata, the chair was usually more a stool with no back while the upper strata would have ornate chairs that often bring to mind something closer to a throne than a dining room chair. Interestingly, the root of the word chair actually means to sit or rest, which any common person could do, while the root of the word throne means to support, as in support the nobility or royalty.

The contributions of Egyptian artisan are said to have laid the foundation for all seating furniture: These early examples demonstrate basic woodworking skill, which gradually gave way to advanced techniques in woodworking, including sophisticated joints, veneering, ivory and precious metal inlays, and cushioning of virtually all available materials.

Throne and benches in the Palace of Minos

The use of chairs and stools and seating was common in other cultures as well in the centuries before Christ. In Mesopotamia, where most citizens lived at ground level – resting on mats and rugs – nobility typically enjoyed seating of various sorts, particularly chairs. Interestingly, unlike the Egyptians, whose chairs evolved to curve to the body, in the various kingdoms of Mesopotamia they seem to have stuck with the rigid and straight construction which was much for formal. On the island of Crete the Palace of Minos at Knossos showcased 2nd century Minoan seating with a throne carved into the stone wall, and benches lining the remainder of the walls. Later the Greeks would develop an extensive array of seating, from lounge beds to chairs to stools, although they remained largely – although not exclusively – elements of the daily life for the well to do citizens. Importantly, the Greeks seem to have elevated the notion of comfort in the area of seating, departing from prior civilizations where functionality was usually the driving force.

With the Romans however, the bed began to take primacy as the place where men would spend much, if not most of their time. Indeed, between eating, reading, writing and entertaining there probably wasn’t a great deal they did outside of their beds. Everyone else, including women, children and servants were largely relegated to benches or stools. Eventually however women seem to have transitioned to the use of beds as well as the primary locus of the day’s activity as well.

After the fall of the Roman Empire the seating virtually disappeared from the west as the conquering nomadic tribes had little use for carting around furniture they were unfamiliar with in the first place and which would needlessly weigh them down in the second. All was not lost as the Church would keep the notion of seating alive in the west so that it would emerge centuries later and achieve unimagined heights.