Morocco: Beauty Beyond Bogart and Bergman...

“Play it again Sam…”, “Kiss me as if it were the last time” “Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine…” Three of the most memorable lines from one of the greatest movies of all time: Casablanca. The movie itself is nothing short of spectacular and most of it plays out in Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco. The only problem however, is that the movie wasn’t based on the city at all and was actually filmed 6,000 miles away in Hollywood. Tourists seeking the Casablanca of Bogart and Bergman have been sorely disappointed for decades… but that doesn’t mean that Morocco is not a spectacular beauty well worth visiting, because it is. Although most people think of Casablanca when they think of Morocco, in reality Morocco beyond the country’s largest city is enchanting and sometimes breathtaking.

Hugh and Angie have just returned from three weeks in Morocco and have once again found it to be extraordinary. Arriving in Marrakesh from Amsterdam, they made their way to a Riad, which is a house or building within a (usually) nondescript walled compound. This wall typically provided families with privacy and protection from the sometimes harsh Moroccan winds. These compounds typically have a fountain or some sort of water feature as well as a garden or small grove of citrus trees. This one had all that and a white cat too!

One of the first places they visited was the Jemaa el-Fnaa, the open market (souq) in the city’s old Medina quarter. There you can find everything from Berber storytellers to snake charmers to booths for Henna tattoos. This souq is also famous for old jewelry made by nomads and a wide variety of unique weavings.

Next it was over to another of Marrakesh‘s jewels, the spectacular Majorelle Garden, a 12 acre botanical garden that was owned by Yves Saint-Laurent and where his ashes were scattered after his death in 2008.

They found much to do and see beyond Marrakesh too. They visited Fes, a city in the north central part of the country famous for its museums and exquisite wood carving. Fes was actually the capital city until it was replaced by Marrakesh 600 years ago. (Marrakesh in turn was supplanted by the current capital, Rabat, in 1912.) Fes’s most famous feature is the Medina of Fes, the city’s ancient quarter. Although no longer the capital city, Fes and the Medina remain the cultural center of the country.

Another wonder of Morocco is Volubilis, home of ruins of ancient Berber and Roman cities situated between Fes and Rabat. Although looted in the 18th century, much of the treasure remains and important pieces of the town are now accessible after being excavated by the French in the late 19th century. Among the town’s most compelling attractions: myriad mosaics and… stork nests! UNESCO deems Volubilis: “An exceptionally well preserved example of a large Roman colonial town on the fringes of the Empire”. Well worth visiting!

Volubilis is located about 20 miles from the city of Meknes, another erstwhile capital city. (For a short period during the reign of the Sultan Moulay Ismail at the turn of the 17th century. The walled city boasts impressive Spanish / Moorish roots that seamlessly blend the European and Islamic architecture.

Next it was on to the beach! Essaouira is a city on Morocco’s Atlantic coast that has been inhabited for over 5,000 years. The city has been a great draw for centuries because its bay is protected by the island of Mogador, making its harbor particularly attractive, which in turn turned the city into a dynamic trading hub between Europe and North Africa. The Jewish quarter of the city contains many old synagogues as Jews settled in the city and facilitated trade with Europe.

Finally it was on to one of the most unexpected jewels in Morocco, Ifrane. Located 5,400 ft. above sea level in the Atlas Mountains, modern Ifrane was established by the French in 1928. It is a resort skiing town – in the winter – and a refuge from the heat in the summer. Planned according to the “garden city” models that were in vogue in the twenties and thirties, the city has many tree lined streets, chalet style houses and many gardens.

And of course there are the souvenirs... Hugh and Angie brought back a plethora of jewelry from a variety of places around the country.  Some old, some new and all interesting.  We will be adding to our website over the next month.  Jewelry will even have it's own section!

So the next time you curl up on your couch and watch Casablanca, go ahead and dream about visiting Morocco, just don’t expect to see the black and white images on your screen. Be prepared to be dazzled by the bright colors, ancient ruins and a country full of breathtaking views.

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Majorelle Garden in Marrakesh, a 12 acre botanical garden owned by the late Yves Saint-Laurent 

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Tajines, earthenware pots which dishes are cooked in and served on

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This is a dish that is often cooked in a Tajine, pasta with goat, vegetables and dates

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Morocco's open air markets feature a wide variety of spices from across the Africa and Asia

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Interior garden of hotel in Fes

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Hotel that has been turned into a museum in Fes

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Blue Gate into the Medina of Fes - a UNESCO World Heritage site

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Another gate into the Medina

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Morocco is known for its beautiful tile work

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Above are some of the brilliant colors used in tile making and below is a tile being decorated

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Morocco is known for its abundant dates

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A delicately laced balcony

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An Amariya, a traditional wedding chair for the bride and groom and carried by 4 strong men.

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This is one of the last leather dyeing facilities that remains in Marrakesh

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Volubilis, the ancient Roman city located about an hour west of Fes

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Storks are common in Morocco, even taking up residence in Volubilis

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Volubilis is famous for its many well preserved Roman mosaics

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City gate in Meknes

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Beautiful interior of a mosque

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Mosque pictured from the door as entering was prohibited

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Dromedary camels (the one hump kind) are common in Morocco

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If you've ever heard the term "Goats in Trees" or seen the movie... it really happens.  They are searching for fruits in a Argan tree

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This path is laid down at the bottom of a canyon carved out of the Morocco desert.  

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Entrance to the studio where desert scenes from many Hollywood movies have been shot, including a little movie called Gladiator.  

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The view from above Agadir, an Atlantic coast city about 125 miles south of Marrakesh 

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A fort in Essaouira, a town about 40 miles north of Agadir

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A sea of blue fishing boats tied up in Essaouira 

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Interior shot of a riad in Essaouira - riad is a house or garden with an interior garden or courtyard

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The Koutoubia Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakesh

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The resort town of Ifrane, with it's alpine climate in the Atlas mountains.
(Photograph: Trevor Hampel of Trevor's Travels)

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A wall featuring a wide variety of local jewelry in Marrekesh

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Articles of Design... TEST BLOG

Even in the digital age there are still thousands of actual, tangible magazines printed every month.  Most of them will find their way back to the recycling plant having never even been opened.  Some however, are worth their weight in gold for the beauty they capture, the ideas they generate, and the dreams they inspire.  Veranda is one of those... and below are some great pieces from the March - April 2016 issue.

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Peaceful Kingdom
Interior Design by Ann Holden & Photography by Max Kim-Bee

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High Impact
Interior Design Nick Olsen & Photography by Joshua McHugh

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Personal Best - Including cover

Interior Design by Jane Hawkins Hoke & Photography by Annie Schlechter

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Return Engagement
Interior Design and Photography by Vicente Wolf

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Chairs 2 Preview

After the fall of the Roman Empire chairs became almost nonexistent from the everyday lives of most westerners… but they were not quite extinct however as chairs never disappeared from the church. While parishioners were relegated to pews or benches, priests and bishops typically had chairs on the altar. As the church grew richer, the ornateness of those “chairs” increased and by the middle of the 2nd millennia they could have easily been confused with thrones. But of course thrones need kings or queens or the close proximity thereof…

The 15th century brought about a settling of Europe into population centers and kingdoms and a rise of nobility. The simultaneous rise of wealth helped bring about a revival of home furnishings in general and chairs in particular. Chairs made a strong comeback as increasingly larger homes required more chairs with distinct functions. Ornamentation, sophistication, and quality of construction also increased.

As the kings and queens of Europe enjoyed increasing wealth, they began to look longingly upon the beauty of the altar chairs the church had maintained and began to demand increasingly ornate thrones. Indeed, thrones, as so much with royalty, were intended to communicate about the king or queen’s proximity to God and their relation to the people. As such, over time the thrones in capitals across Europe became increasingly magnificent and majestic. These could be ornate as is this Venetian throne on the left or as intimidating as the throne on the right made for Napoleon.

As the royal thrones inspired the rest of the nobility to seek chairs of own, they in turn inspired others and over time chairs became increasingly common at all levels of society. This diffusion of the culture of chairs was greatly aided by an increase in manufacturing capacity and affordability. As a result chairs not only became more common, they took on distinct looks and functions such dining chairs vs. accent chairs vs. Bèrgère chairs.

Possibly the single most important and dynamic period of European furniture design took place under the reigns of three French kings of the 17th and 18th centuries. The first was Louis XIV, who took the throne in 1660. He believed that furnishings and décor should be a tool to showcase the majesty and grace of the monarchy. As a result, furniture from this period (~1660 – 1720) is among the most elegant and ornate in history. The chair’s lines are typically straight, the backs upright and the shape rectangular. The chairs were usually richly upholstered and the woods were often gilded.

Soon after the turn of the century Louis XV ascended the throne and furniture styles changed rather dramatically. This period (~1700 – 1750) showcased a less rigid style, with curved and angled arms and legs along with rounded seats and backs. Under Louis XV furniture began to adapt to the needs and comfort of users, particularly women, whose wide dresses could make sitting very difficult on the rigid chairs of Louis XIV.

Finally we have the period inspired by Louis XVI (~1750-1800) which would push back against some of the changes that evolved under his predecessor. Gone were the Baroque flourishes that had become common as a more restrained style came to the fore. Straight lines were back, and while curves were not abandoned entirely, a more subtle, slightly neoclassical rigidity appeared as legs would often be carved in the style of ancient columns and embellishments were slightly subdued.

The stunning evolution of chairs that would occur under the three successive French kings would result in a European style and grace that would last through much of the 19th century. This apex of design included everything from the sumptuous mid 18th century English Rococo style of Robert Adam and Thomas Chippendale to ornately decorated exquisite workmanship of 19th century France’s Napoleon III style with a cornucopia of elegance in between. Chairs were no longer just functional; they became works of art unto themselves. Today we look at the narrow straight lines of the English Neoclassical style and see elegance. We look at the more curved and inviting lines of the French Neoclassical style and see grace. Later we see the broad, expansive Louis-Philippe style chairs and we see warmth and comfort, followed by the majesty inherent in the intricacy of the Napoleon III style.

The 20th century brought a continuing evolution of chairs, from component and assembly line manufacturing to art deco styling to the ergonomic functionality. Today chairs are as a common part of our lives as is fresh water or canned food, but it’s interesting to remember that for most of human history chairs simply didn’t exist for the average person… although you have to wonder if King Tut would have exchanged his stern formal throne for a recliner or Herman Miller office chair.